Decoding the Loom: A Simple Guide to Dobby and Jacquard Weaving

Woven fabrics come in so many patterns and textures, but have you ever stopped to wonder how those designs actually take shape? It all starts with the loom. These incredible machines take simple threads and weave them into everything from classic, structured fabrics to intricate, high-end designs. Knowing the basics of how looms work, and the key differences between dobby and jacquard weaving, can help you make more confident design choices, whether you're creating everyday staples or bold statement pieces.

Dobby Weaving: Small Patterns, Big Impact

Dobby looms are the workhorses of the textile world—efficient, versatile, and perfect for weaving simple, repeating patterns and textures. They work by dividing warp yarns into sections called harnesses, which move up and down in different combinations to create a pattern. Most dobby looms have 12 harnesses, though some go up to 24, allowing for a range of textures, stripes, plaids, and small geometrics.

While dobby looms have their limitations, those constraints often spark creativity. They’re the go-to choice for fabrics that need a balance of design and practicality, think textured upholstery, crisp table linens, or classic striped shirting. If you want a subtle, structured design that’s easy to produce at high volumes, dobby weaving is a smart and stylish option.

Jacquard Weaving: Where Every Thread Tells a Story

If dobby looms are the steady, reliable workhorses, jacquard looms are the high-performance sports cars. They're sleek, precise, and capable of incredible things. Unlike dobby looms, which lift groups of warp threads together, jacquard looms control each individual thread, making it possible to weave highly detailed, intricate designs. This technique is perfect for damasks, brocades, florals, and complex geometric patterns—basically, anything that makes people stop and say wow.

Since jacquard patterns are woven within set repeat sizes, typically appearing two or four times across the fabric’s width, careful planning is needed to ensure the design fits the loom’s constraints. But for those willing to embrace the process, the creative possibilities are nearly limitless. If you’re designing statement fabrics where artistry is the focus, jacquard weaving is the way to go.

Choosing the Right Weaving Method

Understanding dobby and jacquard weaving isn’t just about knowing how fabric is made, it’s about opening up creative possibilities. The weaving method you choose affects everything from design complexity to production efficiency and cost. When you know how your fabrics come to life, you can collaborate with mills more effectively and make design decisions with confidence.

Want to dive even deeper into the world of woven textiles? Join the waitlist for our Studio Intensive, where we take a hands-on approach to weaving, design, and production. And if you’re looking for ongoing insights, resources, and industry updates, sign up for our newsletter—it’s the best way to stay connected and inspired.

Let’s keep the conversation going, we love helping designers bring their ideas to life, one woven thread at a time!